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Antioxidant Serum For Skin


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#1 daniel1

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Posted 08 October 2007 - 08:47 PM


Does anyone know any really good antioxidant serums or formulas for facial application containing most of or at least some of these...
Msm, Grapeseed extract, Vitamin C, Zinc, Bromelain, Vitamin E, Selenium Aloe vera, Vitamins B5 Copper, magnesium, beta carotene, manganese, Astazanthin, Pycnogenol, beta glucan, Coenzyme Q10, alpha-lipoic acid with the possibility of DHEA and NAC although i'm not aware of the last two's potential in the context of facial skin care. It's a pretty diverse list right there i hear on the old grapevine that Geronovas REJUV is very good. But are there any others containing quite afew of the cluster of ingrediants previously mentioned.

#2 Athanasios

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Posted 08 October 2007 - 11:06 PM

If you go with C use it with Ferulic Acid as well. It acts as a stabilizer. There are some mixes of Ferulic Acid, C, and E out there.

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#3 jubai

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Posted 08 October 2007 - 11:16 PM

Interested in this, too.


From what I gather, UV protection during the day is crucial, and pretty much the only product to be proven for long term age fighting is Retin-A (topical tretinoin)


As for internal health, I've had great results with the following (even managed to beat rosacea despite this beeing "impossible" from what my doctor and some dermatologists told me)

Probiotics
Collagen (http://www.iherb.com...px?c=1&pid=6074) is a great and cheap product
Silicon (jarrow's biosil is great)
Intermittent DMAE
Juices made with my omega 8500 extractor (enough flavonoids to nourrish an African village per serving)
EsterC + GrapeSeed Extract for capillaries

Pycnogenol when my skin was bad (pretty much the best thing around for veinous strength, too bad it's $$$)


Liver health (sylmarin + NAC + other herbs, liver flushes once in a while if you are a scientific with an open mind like me :) )

#4 Fredrik

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 12:05 AM

If you go with C use it with Ferulic Acid as well. It acts as a stabilizer. There are some mixes of Ferulic Acid, C, and E out there.


Absolutely. This is the commercial formula with the exact same composition as used in the human clinical trials, 15% C, 1% E and 0.5% ferulic acid:

http://skinceuticals.../CE_Ferulic.pdf

Beside tretinoin and tazarotene this is the topical that has impressed me most. I use it daily and it ligthens skin, gives it a glow after a couple of weeks. Months later pores appear smaller, texture more even and the skin will start to firm up slightly.

#5 stephen_b

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 03:15 AM

The suggested retail price for this product is $128 for 30 ml! Ouch.

Stephen

#6 asnufu

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 08:08 AM

You would probably be able to get all the actives via www.skinactives.com, and mix it into a suitable base, at a retail price well below $128... [sfty]

#7 Fredrik

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 08:49 AM

You would probably be able to get all the actives via www.skinactives.com, and mix it into a suitable base, at a retail price well below $128...  [sfty]


Yes, but be sure that the water in the formula is completetly free of metals (as ascorbic will oxidize faster otherwise) and you need to make small batches as the ascorbic acid will eventually change to dehydro ascorbic acid, you´ll have to pump excess oxygen out of the solution and pump in an inert non-reactive gas, the final solution will have to have a pH of less than 3.5 for the ascorbic acid to penetrate skin and the serum need a non-water component also, like butylene glycol, glycerin or ethanol to make the solution more stable. Keeep it in the fridge.

I tried this myself, but I just mixed plain l-ascorbic in distilled water and ethanol and made it new every week (as described in the original patent). The pH will be like 2, so it will be very irritating. I could use it on my hands, but my face turned beet red =)

The samples on ebay are cheap and reliable though so now I use them instead.

#8 zoolander

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 12:35 PM

Here's something from the "Ready to Use" product list at Skinactives that very similar if not the same as C E Ferulic aicd

http://www.skinactiv...oducts/chas.htm

Ingredient list: Organic aloe vera juice, sea kelp bioferment, pomegranate extract, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, niacinamide, carnosine, carnitine, tetrahydrocurcuminoids, ferulic acid, sodium PCA, hyaluronic acid, hesperidin methyl chalcone, lycopene, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) isopropylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butylparaben.


It's hydrophobic so if you want to get your vitamin E perhaps try their ELS (Every Lipid serum) serum

#9 stephen_b

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 05:11 PM

Absolutely. This is the commercial formula with the exact same composition as used in the human clinical trials, 15% C, 1% E and 0.5% ferulic acid:

Hi Fredrik. These numbers are proportions for the active ingredients. What proportion of inactive ingredient should be used?

I did a bit of digging, and SkinActives has a page of DIY recipes to match commercial products, including one for the SkinCeuticals product. They suggest using the following ingredients that they offer: sea kelp bioferment, ascorbic acid, anti-Ox booster, and ferulic acid.

In this recipe, the sea kelp product would apparently be the base. The anti-ox booster contains "pomegranate (Punica granatum) seed oil, rosehip (Rosa affinis rubiginosa) seed oil, alpha-D-tocopherol (vitamin E), lycopene, tocotrienols, astaxanthin, lutein, alpha lipoic acid, ascorbyl palmitate".

Maybe you'd look red covered in astaxanthin, which I remember from my fish keeping days as a food additive that really brought out the colors in tropical fish (it's also fed to salmon to make the flesh pinker). :)

This recipe just gives examples of ingredients; it would be up to you to choose quantities. Sea kelp is a base they claim is good for oily skin types. They also have a product called canvas base.

Has anyone found research showing that CoQ10 has benefits?

Here are some rough cost estimates for a SkinCeutical-type lotion (hope they actually mix together):
Sea kelp base: $15.00/ 2 oz
Ascorbic acid: $7.50 per 50 gm
Anti-ox booster: $9.50 / 0.5fl. oz
Ferulic acid: $9.50 per 5 gm.

=> 74 ml for $43.50 (compared to $128/30 ml)

And that's not counting the fact that not all of the active ingredients would be used up with one batch.

Stephen

#10 Fredrik

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Posted 10 October 2007 - 12:01 AM

Absolutely. This is the commercial formula with the exact same composition as used in the human clinical trials, 15% C, 1% E and 0.5% ferulic acid:

Hi Fredrik. These numbers are proportions for the active ingredients. What proportion of inactive ingredient should be used?


As long as it is at least 1:1 water and a non-water component (ethanol, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol etc) you´re fine. The less water you use the more stable the solution will be. But more sticky and unpleasant.

There are severol silicone based anhydrous formulas on the market also. I have used and love Skinmedicas C complex formula. It´s matte and contains C + E.

I´m not into DIY, why bother? The skinceuticals samples are cheap on ebay...and they´re proven to reduce UV skin damage from free radicals. You will never know if your DIY formula will work. I leave it to the cosmetic chemists! But I can post a recipe for a C + E ferulic topical that a chemical savvy friend on the web gave me. It´s kind of based on the original patent:

mix
4.5 g ascorbic (15%), about 1 tsp
18.4 g water (about 3.7 tsp)
1 g ferulic acid (1%), around 0.2 tsp

add
4.5 g alcohol, about 1 tsp

mix in separate container
1.5 g laureth-4 (5%), about 0.3 tsp
0.067 g d-alpha tocopherol (1 100 IU gelcap content)

add water/alcohol/ascorbic/ferulic mix to laureth-4/tocopherol mix, shake well, store in small dark glass bottle in refrigerator, throw out after 1 week and make a new batch.

You can get a 1/8, 1/16, and 1/32 tsp measuring set at Wal-mart.

#11 craigb527

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Posted 13 October 2007 - 01:01 AM

http://www.careforface.com/
http://www.springboa...ratrol-crm.html

These two links don't contain what you mentioned above, but Resveratrol in topical form. It works for whatever ails you it would seem [lol]

Edited by craigb527, 13 October 2007 - 01:27 AM.


#12 Gerald W. Gaston

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Posted 13 October 2007 - 03:31 AM

http://www.careforface.com/


Interesting to see Fluridil in there. Eucapil/Fluridil was hot for a while on the hairloss boards.

#13 Fredrik

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Posted 13 October 2007 - 07:02 PM

http://www.careforface.com/
http://www.springboa...ratrol-crm.html

These two links don't contain what you mentioned above, but Resveratrol in topical form.  It works for whatever ails you it would seem [lol]


I wouldn´t go with topical resveratrol until more is known. One study showed a protective effect against UVA-damage and this one below showed the opposite...MORE DNA-damage with resveratrol.

Use ascorbic acid and tocopherol that is proven to protect with topical application and they´re both biological antioxidants already present in your skin when you read this.


Resveratrol enhances UVA-induced DNA damage in HaCaT human keratinocytes.

Seve M, Chimienti F, Devergnas S, Aouffen M, Douki T, Chantegrel J, Cadet J, Favier A.
Laboratoire des Lésions des Acides Nucléiques, DRFMC/SCIB, CEA/Grenoble, Grenoble, France. seve@drfmc.ceng.cea.fr

Resveratrol, a polyphenolic phytoalexin, is a very effective antioxidant that also exhibits strong antiproliferative and anti-inflammatory properties. Recent studies have provided support for the use of resveratrol in human cancer chemoprevention, in combination with either chemotherapeutic drugs or cytotoxic factors for a most efficient treatment of drug refractory tumor cells. Resveratrol is also widely used in topical preparations, as a chemoprotective compound against development of several cutaneous disorders, including skin cancer. Nevertheless, the combined effect of resveratrol and UVA irradiation on cellular toxicity and DNA damage has never been assessed. The aim of this work was to investigate the effect of resveratrol on cell fate in immortalized human keratinocytes HaCaT cells. The results indicated that resveratrol potentiates the production of significant amounts of 8-oxo-7,8-dihydro-2'-deoxyguanosine in UVA-irradiated genomic DNA. Moreover, the combination of resveratrol with UVA significantly enhances the induction of DNA strand breaks and cell death in HaCaT keratinocytes. The conclusion is a potential hazardous effect of topical application of resveratrol, particularly on regions exposed to sunlight.

PMID: 16787346 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]

Edited by fredrik, 14 October 2007 - 04:44 AM.


#14 neogenic

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Posted 14 October 2007 - 07:45 PM

Fredrick, does alpha-tocopherol have any inferiority topically? Is Gamma-tocopherol superior? Synthetic vs. natural make difference? Do tocotrienols have any benefit?

#15 Fredrik

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Posted 15 October 2007 - 08:49 AM

Fredrick, does alpha-tocopherol have any inferiority topically?  Is Gamma-tocopherol superior?  Synthetic vs. natural make difference?  Do tocotrienols have any benefit?


Oh no, not that I know of. Alpha-tocopherol is the form used in all the C + E topical antioxidant studies from the early 90s. Since alpha-tocopherol is naturally secreted with sebum and deposited throughout the skin I would start with that. I saw that Neutrogena (Johnson & Johnson) is using gamma in their new antioxidant range. But I´m keeping my C + E topical serum until I see some good comparative studies.

#16 stephen_b

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Posted 15 October 2007 - 05:47 PM

Hi fredrik. How long will a 30 ml bottle of skinceuticals CE ferulic last, by the way? Do you use it all over your body (the skin has a lot of surface area). Any references in the literature for the best frequency of dosing?

Stephen

#17 Fredrik

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Posted 15 October 2007 - 07:26 PM

Hi fredrik. How long will a 30 ml bottle of skinceuticals CE ferulic last, by the way? Do you use it all over your body (the skin has a lot of surface area). Any references in the literature for the best frequency of dosing?

Stephen



You saturate the skin with three days application of 20% vitamin C and the half-life of tissue disappearance is about 4 days (in pig skin, very similar to human skin). Wait 20-30 minutes before you put your daily sunscreen over it so not to neutralize the solution before it penetrates. You don´t have to use it everyday but you´ll get the photoprotection from vitamin E and ferulic acid if you do.

"Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies."
http://www.ncbi.nlm....pt=AbstractPlus

I don´t know. I´ve never bought the full size bottle because I don´t want it to oxidize to fast. I only use the small samples from ebay, cheaper and smarter. One sample lasts about 3 weeks. I only use it on my face.

Skinceuticals use the synthetic vitamin E, DL-alpha tocopherol in their products. The same form was used in the published human trials.

Since retinoids (tretinoin, tazarotene) are much more protective against skin aging than any antioxidant topicals I prefer to use those on my neck instead of ascorbic acid. I find if I use both my neck will turn red.

Edited by fredrik, 16 October 2007 - 03:31 PM.


#18 happy lemon

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 06:03 AM

http://www.careforface.com/
http://www.springboa...ratrol-crm.html

These two links don't contain what you mentioned above, but Resveratrol in topical form. It works for whatever ails you it would seem [lol]


I wouldn´t go with topical resveratrol until more is known. One study showed a protective effect against UVA-damage and this one below showed the opposite...MORE DNA-damage with resveratrol.

Use ascorbic acid and tocopherol that is proven to protect with topical application and they´re both biological antioxidants already present in your skin when you read this.


Resveratrol enhances UVA-induced DNA damage in HaCaT human keratinocytes.

Seve M, Chimienti F, Devergnas S, Aouffen M, Douki T, Chantegrel J, Cadet J, Favier A.
Laboratoire des Lésions des Acides Nucléiques, DRFMC/SCIB, CEA/Grenoble, Grenoble, France. seve@drfmc.ceng.cea.fr

Resveratrol, a polyphenolic phytoalexin, is a very effective antioxidant that also exhibits strong antiproliferative and anti-inflammatory properties. Recent studies have provided support for the use of resveratrol in human cancer chemoprevention, in combination with either chemotherapeutic drugs or cytotoxic factors for a most efficient treatment of drug refractory tumor cells. Resveratrol is also widely used in topical preparations, as a chemoprotective compound against development of several cutaneous disorders, including skin cancer. Nevertheless, the combined effect of resveratrol and UVA irradiation on cellular toxicity and DNA damage has never been assessed. The aim of this work was to investigate the effect of resveratrol on cell fate in immortalized human keratinocytes HaCaT cells. The results indicated that resveratrol potentiates the production of significant amounts of 8-oxo-7,8-dihydro-2'-deoxyguanosine in UVA-irradiated genomic DNA. Moreover, the combination of resveratrol with UVA significantly enhances the induction of DNA strand breaks and cell death in HaCaT keratinocytes. The conclusion is a potential hazardous effect of topical application of resveratrol, particularly on regions exposed to sunlight.

PMID: 16787346 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]



Hi Fredrik,

I would like to use a topical cream with resveratrol; however, after seeing with the study you posted, I do have a worry of it.

What do you think if I use cream with resveratrol in the pm and (of course) a sunscreen in the am, then I do have to worry about the UVA?

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#19 Stephen Fleming

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Posted 09 November 2009 - 09:06 AM

Hi guys,
This is Stephen, I found this forum. many information and its sollution are available in this forum. I like it. Everybody Thanks for sharing knowledge with me.




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