@ happy lemon
ingredients:
distilled water 15g
ethoxydiglycol 6g (water miscible solvent for vitamin E)
propylene glycol 3g (solvent for ferulic acid)
ascorbic acid (ultrafine mesh) 4.5g
vitamin E (mixed tocopherols) 0.3g
ferulic acid 0.24g
NaH (sodium hyaluronate) 0.06g
panthenol 0.3g (moisturizing -very sticky stuff!)
preservative (I use Euxyl PE 9010) 0.21g
polysorbate 80 0.3g (emulsifier)
fragrance (I use grapefruit essential oil) a few drops to mask the smell of ethoxydiglycol
here's how I make it:
phase 1
Thoroughly mix the panthenol into the water. Sprinkle the NaH onto the panthenol/water mixture. Allow one hour to dissolve.
phase 2
Dissolve the ferulic acid in the propylene glycol. You will have to stir it a lot and/or apply gentle heat. Use a double boiler or similar set up.
phase 3
Add the vitamin E to the ethoxydigycol. Stir until properly blended.
Finally, add the ascorbic acid to the water phase, stir until completely dissolved. Combine the three phases, add the preservative, add the polysorbate 80 and stir vigorously applying gentle heat if necessary to properly homogenize the serum. Add the fragrance to your preference. If necessary filter through gauze or something similar to remove any globs of undissolved polysorbate 80. The yield should be around 30g, but may be a little less depending on the amount of mechanical loss incurred.
A final note: it is useful to have a scale with 0.01 gram precision such as
this, as well as a number of inexpensive glass vessels (I found some cheap 50mL beakers at a local surplus store) and stirring rods, pipettes, etc...
Edited by pizzatheorem, 16 June 2009 - 08:12 PM.